Sunday, November 29, 2015

Much More Than Basketball: Okinawa and the Armed Forces Classic

One year ago, I messaged one of my best friends, David Sheppard, with a link to an ESPN press release stating the location and teams of the next Armed Forces Classic. I accompanied the link with a simple comment, "Dude, it's destiny," since we were likely going to move to Asia the next summer. Our Gonzaga Bulldogs were going to play the Pittsburgh Panthers in Okinawa, Japan on the US Marine Base Camp Smedley D. Butler, the second weekend of November, 2015. We both understood the magnitude of this event, honoring our military service members through college basketball, and how special it would be to attend. So we started planning.

Eleven months had passed and Dave and I had not only settled in nicely to our new lives in Asia, but had planned most of our trip to Okinawa with the game tickets, flights, and Airbnb secured. Our hours and hours of research and Dave working with directors in the Gonzaga alumni and athletic offices to acquire tickets had paid off. We were going to Okinawa and the Armed Forces Classic.

Eating like an Okinawan.
November 12th finally arrived and I was headed to Naha, Okinawa. Dave and I hadn't seen each other since June, so a big embrace was in order. We took the bus up to Chatan with the help of a friendly Okinawan to meet Kiichi, our Airbnb host for the weekend. Kiichi couldn't have been more welcoming. He and his apartment provided everything we needed and more. After getting settled, he drove us to a fast casual restaurant, where I had goya for the first time. The tofu was good, but the famous vegetable that supposedly plays a part in why Okinawa has the largest percentage of centurians in the world (4x greater than the next) was a little too bitter for my liking. Maybe I won't live to 100 then. We ended our first night with some Orions, the popular local beer, on the beach, and some Japanese television at the apartment.


Unwinding at Araha Beach.
The next morning we awoke to a bright, sunny day and headed out for a swim in the East China Sea, where we had refreshing water temperatures and silky, white sand. Friday was our day to explore the island with the Armed Forces Classic and post-game events being held the next day. Kiichi graciously helped us rent a car, and we were off. But not before handing us a Pat Metheny CD and the parting advice, "Just remember, left side." I couldn't believe he handed us that CD because I really enjoy his music and have seen him in concert. After I told him that, Kiichi was the one stunned and replied, "Ohh that is my dream!" What are the chances a guy on a small island in the Pacific whose apartment I'm staying at loves a jazz musician I've seen live? Crazy. The reason he said "just remember, left side..." is that Japan drives on the left side of the road, which is something I happily crossed off my bucket list. I only lost concentration a couple of times. Luckily, there were no cars coming.

250,000 names engraved in stone.
Thanks to Dave's excellent navigation, we made it to one of the southern most points on Okinawa's main island, the Peace Memorial Park and Museum. The Peace Park honors the 250,000 military members and civilians who died in the Battle of Okinawa between April and June of 1945. Each prefecture of Japan has built their own monuments to honor their home soliders along the southeast section, overlooking the ocean, which I thought was a special tribute. As we made our way through the Park, the emotions were powerful. Thinking of the bloodshed that occured on the very ground you're standing on is saddening, but it was a battle that needed to be won by the Allies to provide an advantage that was instrumental in ending the war.

We had a few minutes in between finishing our tour of Peace Memorial Park and picking up our good friend, David Hoover, at the airport, so we decided to do something that I had recalled from my research: The Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters. Making our way to Naha City and zig zagging through different neighborhoods where the streets are barely wide enough to let one car through, I didn't completely trust NaviDave. "Are you sure this is the way?" "According to Google, yes." After a few minutes, we see the sign to into the small parking area for the Underground HQ. Whew, we made it.

Inside the tunnels.
We headed inside to get our tickets and walk down over a hundred feet into a series of tunnels that Dave and I were too tall for in some places. These tunnels were stunning and preserved well for the war that went on. There was information on each of the rooms in the HQ, such as the coding room, commanding officers room, and medical wing. I imagined the final days of the battle inside the HQ, and how frantic everything would have been knowing the Allies were just days away from invading their stronghold. The Allied Forces approached the HQ in the middle of June 1945, to awaiting Japanese who fought until the very end.

Dave and I explored two profound historical sites which honor soldiers and civilians, both with an emphasis on peace and hope that this never happens again. We will remember it forever.



Our baby for the day.
American Village.
We later picked up 'Hoov' at the airport and I said, "Hoover, I'm just gonna get in on the ride side and drive here." He was confused at the joke, only to hop in the black Honda Life and realize it wasn't a joke after all. We couldn't stop laughing. We made it back to Chatan, and later took a cab to American Village, an area popular for its similarities to American culture, with lively bars, restaurants, and music. We were longing for some big burgers, so we went to a restaurant called Cantina and got a those along with a stein of Orion, of course. After dinner, we went to a Blue Seal Ice Cream shop for a few Okinawa Salt Cookie flavored cones. I knew I needed to have Blue Seal before I came to the island because not only did I hear it was delicious, but also their interesting story. Blue Seal was founded in the US, but moved to Okinawa in 1948 to supply the stationed troops with dairy products, and its popularity has grown ever since. You can find Blue Seal shops all throughout the island. Dave, Hoover, and I finished off the night at a bar reminiscing of our days at GU...a great way to prep for the Armed Forces Classic the next day.

On 4 hours of sleep, I woke up at 6:30 am to my alarm, but there was another that was more effective. I heard Zombie Nation, the Gonzaga student section anthem, from the other room. Dave couldn't have chosen a better song to get us up and at 'em. Our excitement was through the roof. Dave and I took a cab to American Village, where we boarded a bus with many more Gonzaga fans (about 15) than Pitt fans (3), exactly the way it should be.

National Anthems.
See caption above.
We had been waiting a long time for this moment. We were inside Foster Fieldhouse. The atmosphere was electric. Dave and I even made it to ESPN. I got chills during both national anthems, as I thought about what we had seen the day before and how fortunate I was to be here for this special event. The game tipped off, but you could tell five minutes in something was wrong with the court. The players were slipping constantly. The dripping sweat and increased condensation from the rain made it a dangerous court to play on. Nearing the end of halftime, looking forward to cheering on the Zags to a comeback victory, a PA announcement came on. Busy taking a video, I only heard enough to where I had to ask Dave what was said. It took Dave a second to process, and then shouted, "What!? They're cancelling the game!" I replied "No, you're kidding..." But then I looked down at the bench and could see Coach Few say to our Preseason Player of the Year Kyle Wiltjer, "It's over." Nobody could believe it. What a huge disappointment.


Post (half) game.
But the disappointment didn't stay too long. After Coach Few's epic "Nobody's Tougher Than You Marines" speech, the players and military members gathered on the court to hang out and thank one another. It was an incredible moment, and reminded us all that the Armed Forces Classic is about much more than basketball.


2015-16 All Glue Team member, Kyle Dranginis.












After we exited the gym and sent off the Zags (shoutout to Przemek, Kyle D., and Rem #ZagsTakeVegas2013), we met a current Marine and 2002 Gonzaga graduate, Mike Lupient. We had a fantastic conversation about all kinds of stuff like our lives in Asia, days at Gonzaga living on Mission and Nora, how he became a Marine, etc. He lived a similar life to many new college graduates working a professional job, but after one year said to himself, 'Hey, there's got to be more to life than this" and decided become a Marine to serve his country. He now has a beautiful family and is an avid diver in one of the best diving spots on the planet. Mike is one of those old school Zags, and we couldn't have asked for a better guy to spend time with on the base.

Zags and one tired future Zag.

Dave and I explored the base, and wound up finding an A&W/Pizza Hut for some classic American grub & a root beer and a bowling alley where we got a quick game in. After my bowling victory (Dave usually wins), we headed back for a much needed nap. What a day it had been.

We went out in American Village for a late dinner to an Italian restaurant and then to a bar called "Cheers" to end the night. We woke up the next morning to go for one last relaxing swim at the beach. Although there was one problem. We thought we would be back in time to leave to the airport a little before 10 am, but that suddenly turned into 10:30. Kiichi came in clutch once again and drove us to the airport. We were 30 minutes "early" but they still didn't let us through the gates. Dave barely made his flight at the next terminal, but Hoover and I were out of luck. We had to pay the change fee to get the flight at 9 pm back to Taipei. I had never missed a flight in my life, and I was frustrated and dissappointed that we didn't leave when we said were.

But just like the basketball game, disappointment soon turned into enjoyment. Hoover and I got to explore the city of Naha, first with a trip along its monorail to Shuri Castle. The castle was constructed in the 14th century, but much of it destroyed in World War II and rebuilt in 1992. This was the social and economic hub of the Ryuku Kingdom, the historical name for the land, for almost 500 years. (Sidenote: I highly recommend reading about the Ryuku Kingdom if you're interested in history). From the castle outlook, you can see all of Naha with the Pacific Ocean shimering in the background. Absolutely magnificent.

Shuri Castle overlooking Naha City and the Pacific Ocean.










But first, let us take a selfie.
On our way out of the castle, we ran into a few Japanese girls who wanted to take a selfie with us, so...of course we did! After a few photos, we waved goodbye to them and had to get an "arrigato gozaimasu" in, cause you know, we're 'cultured gentleman.' We took to the monorail back to Kokusai Street, the most famous street on the island, to pick up some gifts and enjoy a traditional Okinawan meal of soba noodles and rice, complete with an Orion. Hoover and I arrived at Naha International Airport two hours early and made this flight back to Taipei. One of the best weekends of my life had just concluded, spent with great friends in an unbelievably beautiful setting.


Okinawa is a gorgeous and fascinating place with its own unique culture, and I cannot wait to return. We experienced a wide range of emotions during our trip. Sadness when exploring battle grounds where many soliders and civilians perished, but then also joy, watching our favorite sports team play and meeting amazing new people. I'm extremely grateful for the freedoms I have thanks to our military service members' sacrifice. My time in Okinawa and being a part of the 2015 Armed Forces Classic made me even more proud to be a Zag and an American.






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